Tag: Life on the Run

New Eyes

Jyri Manninen | Kajura

Over the 11th and 12th days of our Portugal’s Northern Coastline and Peneda-Geres cycling tour, Matilda and I would ride a total of 148km to reach Marinha Grande, via Figueira da Foz, where we’d overnight at Hostel 402, as we’d already done on the outward leg. As we headed out from Torreira, there really wasn’t much to think about. It was basically just going to be a day of head down and bum up, to pretty much retrace the same route as we’d taken on the outbound leg. However, we did start the day with a relaxing roll down the Aveiro Lagoon on our way to São Jacinto to catch the morning ferry. As I had plenty of time, before departure, I even tucked in to a second breakfast at a waterfront café, while chatting with a retired, holidaying couple from Holland, who happened to be sitting at an adjacent table.

After thoroughly enjoying a simple, yet utterly superb Portuguese breakfast of champions, which consisted of a strong coffee, Sagres and a pastel de nata, it was time for the short ferry over to Praia do Cabedelo, which was way easier than having to, once again, navigate the stressful crossing of the Mondego River via the main traffic bridge. From there, we followed the Eurovelo 1 bike route before deviating inland at Lagoa da Ervedeira. From there Matilda and I proceeded on to our destination of Marinha Grande via some wonderful, quiet country roads, which were mostly free of any traffic.

Expectations lead,
to sometimes good, sometimes bad.
With new eyes I see.

‘New Eyes’ by Jyri Manninen

We stayed at the Wood, Steel and Glass hostel; and while I won’t go into any greater details, I’ll just say that I was quite unpleasantly surprised at the quality of this place, including the service provided. Despite the good expectations I’d had, at least based on the pictures I’d seen of the place when booking, I was rather underwhelmed, to say the least. I’ll also add that spending the night sharing a dormitory with half a dozen rough and rowdy Spanish laborers, who were working in the area, added an extra twist that I could have very well done without after a long day in the saddle. I suppose when traveling on a budget, you have to be prepared for anything; and I guess that’s what, ultimately, develops one’s ability to accept uncomfortable situations, and via that, the resilience to meeting the wide range of challenges that life can throw at you. So, in the end, it was all good!

Be blessed,
Jyri

Lifelight

Jyri Manninen | Kajura

After the past two super easy days, during which I focused mainly on sightseeing in the historic old cities of Guimarães and Amarante, it was now time, on this 10th day of my Portugal’s Northern Coastline and Peneda-Geres cycling tour, once again, to spend a long day in the saddle, as I began my homeward leg.


This day’s ride of 115km would first see Matilda and I head back west to reconnect with Porto. From there, we’d continue southward down the coastline to our day’s destination of Torreira, where we had already stayed on the way up. As we could have easily just retraced the same route from Porto back to our starting point in Peniche, the additional challenge now was to try and find some new roads and pathways to explore, even if we’d be riding through, and overnighting in, the same areas.

As Amarante is nestled at the bottom of a river valley, our pre-dawn departure started with a rather solid climb, which would account for a huge chunk of the 1275mof  total vertical climb that we would do over the course of the morning; but what a reward we earned when we reached the first saddle, an absolutely glorious sunrise that instantly cured my heavy breathing and heavy legs. Matilda and I had found, once again, our happy place, and so we would remain for the remainder of the day, only being briefly interrupted by a couple of snack and beer breaks in the afternoon. It was definitely go-time!


When we reached Porto, this time I decided to cross back over the D’Ouro River via the Ponte Infante Dom Henrique, instead of the more famous and touristic Luis I Bridge, which we had used on the outbound leg. It also saved a lot of time not having to fight the traffic congestion in that area. Once we’d cut diagonally down to reach the coastal bicycle route in Espinho, it was smooth rolling all the way to Torreira.

The rays of life shine,
from the other side of hell.
Wonder awakens.

*Lifelight’ by Jyri Manninen

After having set up camp at the now familiar Torreira Camping, I took a late evening stroll to Praia da Torreira, located on the ocean side of the isthmus; and if the spectacular sunrise over Amarante in the morning wasn’t enough, the deep calm and serenity of the extended sunset over the Atlantic’s horizon would crown what had manifested into one of the best bicycle touring day’s that I’d ever experienced. It was as if, over the course of the entire day, the sun’s light had, by first bridging the empty coldness of space in between us, brought my body, mind and spirit back to full charge.

Be blessed,
Jyri

Toll of the Bells

Jyri Manninen | Kajura

As I departed Guimarães on this 9th day of my Portugal’s North Coast and Peneda-Geres bicycle tour, I only had a very short day of riding ahead of me, just a 36km roll to my next main destination, the picturesque old town of Amarante located on the Tâmega river, which is the longest tributary of the Douro river. I decided to follow the historic Rota do Românico route, which would have me meander through some utterly stunning countryside, and which would include a nice amount of climbing as well.

Amarante’s origins date back to the primitive peoples that hunted and gathered in the Serra da Aboboreira, sometime during the Stone Age. Although the city was founded in 360BC, it wasn’t until Gonçalo, a Dominican friar, who was born in Guimarães, settled in the area in the early 13th century following his pilgrimage to Rome and Jerusalem, that the city really started to develop, including the construction of its now famous stone bridge.

The bells, they do toll.
The price to be paid, they mark.
Angels keeping score.

‘Toll of the Bells’ by Jyri Manninen

I arrived in Amarante already around lunchtime, and I was fortunate enough to be granted an early check-in to my accommodation at the Des Arts Guesthouse, a charming building with more than 100 years of life. Its decor and suites are a tribute, in addition to the area’s history, to the artists who are part of Amarante’s memory. So, with plenty of time on my hands, it was time to check out the old town and the famous stone bridge; and just by the bridge, I ended up coming across a celebrating wedding party exiting the Igreja e Mosteiro de São Gonçalo to the loud chimes of the church’s bells. From there, I took an easy stroll to soak in the peaceful atmosphere of this historic location by following a loop that would take me along both banks of the Tâmega.


Getting the chance to visit Amarante was an absolute treat, and it was also a great way to spend my last easy day before the commencement of the return leg to Peniche, which would include several long days in the saddle. However, I knew that, one day, I would come back to visit this region, but most likely on foot, and with much more time to explore and discover its beauty.

Be blessed,
Jyri