As I departed Guimarães on this 9th day of my Portugal’s North Coast and Peneda-Geres bicycle tour, I only had a very short day of riding ahead of me, just a 36km roll to my next main destination, the picturesque old town of Amarante located on the Tâmega river, which is the longest tributary of the Douro river. I decided to follow the historic Rota do Românico route, which would have me meander through some utterly stunning countryside, and which would include a nice amount of climbing as well.
Amarante’s origins date back to the primitive peoples that hunted and gathered in the Serra da Aboboreira, sometime during the Stone Age. Although the city was founded in 360BC, it wasn’t until Gonçalo, a Dominican friar, who was born in Guimarães, settled in the area in the early 13th century following his pilgrimage to Rome and Jerusalem, that the city really started to develop, including the construction of its now famous stone bridge.
The bells, they do toll.
‘Toll of the Bells’ by Jyri Manninen
The price to be paid, they mark.
Angels keeping score.
I arrived in Amarante already around lunchtime, and I was fortunate enough to be granted an early check-in to my accommodation at the Des Arts Guesthouse, a charming building with more than 100 years of life. Its decor and suites are a tribute, in addition to the area’s history, to the artists who are part of Amarante’s memory. So, with plenty of time on my hands, it was time to check out the old town and the famous stone bridge; and just by the bridge, I ended up coming across a celebrating wedding party exiting the Igreja e Mosteiro de São Gonçalo to the loud chimes of the church’s bells. From there, I took an easy stroll to soak in the peaceful atmosphere of this historic location by following a loop that would take me along both banks of the Tâmega.
Getting the chance to visit Amarante was an absolute treat, and it was also a great way to spend my last easy day before the commencement of the return leg to Peniche, which would include several long days in the saddle. However, I knew that, one day, I would come back to visit this region, but most likely on foot, and with much more time to explore and discover its beauty.
Be blessed,
Jyri
run for your life 