Tag: Life on the Run

Origin

Jyri Manninen | Kajura

On this 7th day of my Portugal’s Northern Coastline and Peneda-Geres cycling tour, I would finally make my crossing of the Peneda-Geres National Park; and while it would only be a ride of just 60km, it would include over 1200m of very solid climbing, as well as a brief visit to Spain, as the national park spans over the border between the two countries.

Pretty much immediately after departing Lima Escape Camping at Entre Ambos-os-Rios, the first of the day’s two major climbs would begin. I was to continue to track the Lima River in the valley below me all the way up to its origin at Encoro de Lindoso, just before crossing into Spain at A Madalena; and the views! Well, let me just say that the juice was well worth the squeeze!


After crossing the border, it wasn’t long before I arrived at Lobios, where I enjoyed a late morning coffee and cerveja break before turning south to head back towards Portugal. However, the first half of the afternoon’s ride was not going to be easy with that second, and even more severe, major climb now right in my face. I was definitely going to have to work hard to earn my next offering of liquid gold!

To the source, I climbed.
Blood, sweat, tears of pain and joy.
Moments of magic.

‘Origin’ by Jyri Manninen

I felt a great sense of relief when I reached the old border post at Portela do Homem, located at the top of that exhausting climb, especially knowing that it would all be downhill from here; and I definitely made sure to collect my prize at the Bar da Fronteira. What a moment it was to soak in the atmosphere, as I spent a half hour or so sipping on a grande Super Bock while quietly observing the hordes of tourists visiting the national park’s central hub, the starting point for many of its nature trails; but soon it would be time to commence my descent!


On the way down, I decided to make one final stop for the day, as I wanted a moment of tranquility for myself to just be alone with my thoughts in solitude and silence. I had now reached the ‘top of my tour’ and felt a kind of melancholy, as I wouldn’t have the opportunity on this trip to properly immerse myself in the beauty of this magical place, as I was still on a fairly tight schedule. It really emphasized to me just how precious time is, and how one should not waste it on meaningless pursuits. I vowed, then and there, that I would return on foot to well and truly explore the wonders of Peneda-Geres.

That final descent ended up being so steep and fast that I nearly overwhelmed Matilda’s disc brakes! However, we made it safely to our night’s accommodation at the Selina Geres, a lovely hotel situated right at the edge of the Geres Albufeira, which is connected to the Cávado River. I stayed in a dormitory room, which I shared with, if you can believe it, another Finn, who was a medical student with the same family name as me, as well as a Dutch scientist working remotely on food sources for planned moon mission astronauts. Yeah, you just couldn’t make this shit up!


What a day it had been, and it was finished off in perfect style with a delicious, Portuguese buffet dinner organised by the hotel, which they offer once a week for guests. So, it seems that I found myself here at exactly the right time.

Be blessed,
Jyri

Escape

Jyri Manninen | Kajura


On this day I would change course due east to follow the Lima River inland to the edge of the Peneda-Geres National Park, a comfortable 70km ride with a nice 400 odd metres of climbing. As I quickly revisited Viana do Castelo in the very early morning hours, I took in the famous ship, the Gil Eannes. Between 1955 and 1973, the Gil Eannes was the flagship of the Portuguese White Fleet that operated in codfish fishing in the seas of the Grand Banks of Newfoundland and Greenland. It also served as a maritime authority, mail ship, tug, icebreaker, general support ship for Portuguese fishing vessels, as well as a hospital ship.


After leaving Viana, in a light, yet warm morning drizzle, it was pretty much a head down, bum up spin to Ponte de Lima, where the famous Roman and medieval stone bridge is the centerpiece. Visiting this bridge would also be a reconnection with my first ever camino walking trek, the Camino Portuguese, which I undertook back in the Easter period of 2017. At the same time, it was both a very weird, but also satisfying moment to be back at this location, and to think of all that had happened during the interim years.

Proceeding onwards from Ponte de Lima, I was clearly now into wine growing country. The morning fog had lifted, and with the sun now brightly shining in the sky, the warmth and humidity started to ramp up as I passed numerous vineyards en route to the next major regional town of Ponte da Barca, where I decided to have an extended lunch break by the river with views of its own Roman age bridge. Once rested and refreshed with some pastries and a few bottles of Sagres, I started the final segment of my ride to the day’s destination at Lima Escape Camping and Glamping, which is located on the banks of the Lima River, and right at the border of the Peneda-Geres National Park.

On the way up high,
to where the Lime comes to life.
I made my escape.

‘Escape’ by Jyri Manninen

After getting my camp set up, I headed off to do some late afternoon exploring on foot, discovering the entrancingly peaceful and serene Lagoa de Chão D’Além. At this hidden spot, I felt a wave of profound relaxation and calm wash over me as I spent a moment sitting by the water’s edge, just silently listening to the gurgle and hiss of the water as it flowed between the rocks.


Upon returning to camp, I hopped into my hammock accompanied by a grande, ice-cold bottle of Sagres to see in the sunset. As the light glistened and sparkled over the Lima river below, and then gradually faded away into night, I fell into a deep trance-like state, one in which I felt that I’d finally cut ties with the modern world. I’d finally made my escape.

Be blessed,
Jyri

El Jefe

Jyri Manninen | Kajura


It would be a relatively short ride of just 54km to Carreço, which is just north of the major northern coastal city of Viana do Castelo. However, it would be all the more significant, because this was the final destination of my 4220km long Finland to Portugal Trans-European bicycle tour back in 2018. I departed Póvoa de Varzim in idyllic conditions, with clear skies and a wonderful, fresh coolness in the air. It wouldn’t be long before I arrived at my first key destination of the day, the small historic town of Fão by the Cávado River. From there it was just a few kilometres more to Esposende, a popular tourist coastal location.

As I continued north towards Viana do Castelo, by pure luck, I crossed the Camino Portuguese walking trail. I took a moment there to take in the calmness of the water crossing, and to enjoy reminisce about my own Camino Portuguese, the original trek that had led to the birth of Life on the Run. Soon enough, I found myself at the southern bank of the Lima River at Cabedelo, with Viana do Castelo coming into view on the opposite side, and after a short ferry crossing, I was back in Viana do Castelo once again. However, I still had an additional 8km ahead to reach my day’s destination of Casa do Sardão at Carreço, where I had spent the penultimate night of my Finland to Portugal bicycle tour. To this day, this albergue still remains the most amazing guesthouse that I have ever stayed at, and it is run by the most gracious of hosts, Hugo, who is also a seasoned world traveller.

Seven year cycle,
from broken to renewed soul.
The boss speaks to me.

‘El Jefe’ by Jyri Manninen

When I’d started this current tour, I’d always planned to spend an extra day at Casa do Sardão, to not only catch up with Hugo, but to also have some valuable down time to re-explore Viana do Castelo and surrounds. After having picked up Matilda from Viana Bicycles in the morning, where Matilda had had a few of her rear spokes replaced, we rode through town and then up the coastal pathway back to Carreço. For the remainder  of the day I just chilled out at Casa do Sardão, chatting with some Camino Portuguese pilgrims about their own experiences. Then, in the evening, I spent some quality alone time, lying in a hammock watching the sunset, as I sparked up my ritualistic El Jefe cigar, which had been especially gifted to me back in Finland for my birthday by one of my closest friends.

It was now time to set my sights forwards to the Pe–neda-Geres National Park, which I would reach the next day by following the Lima River inland. This would then also include a reconnection with my original Camino Portuguese trekking route at Ponte de Lima. As the sun finally descended beyond the horizon, and the night sky lit up with a myriad of hues, my El Jefe gradually transformed into smoke and ash. In this moment, I felt that I was, once again, truly home.

Be blessed,
Jyri