Tag: cycling

My Matilda

Jyri Manninen | Kajura

How quickly the time had passed from when we set out northward just 2 weeks ago, and now finding ourselves, as if in an instant, back at the doorstep of our origin. With just a nominal 35km to ride, it felt like we had all the time in the world to soak in the atmosphere of our home shire, as we passed through the last series of villages on our way back to the Atlantic coast and our starting point in Peniche.

Very soon after leaving Caldas, we would arrive at the famous medieval town of Óbidos, where I had actually lived for a while back in 2015. Despite the countless times that I’ve been here, it never fails to touch my heart. So much history, so many challenges, so many emotions, and each time that I’ve returned, it feels that I am, somehow, just that little bit more complete. Óbidos is also where the Life on the Run concept had arrived into my consciousness; and from which so many camino adventures, both walking and cycling, have been spawned. How blissfully nostalgic it felt to pass by the coworking space ‘Espaço Ó’, the incubator, and clarifier, of so many of the perspectives that would shape my direction and actions until this present day.

Before long, we’d reach the European surf mecca that is Baleal. With so much time in hand, we decided to roll over to Baleal island, via the connecting land bridge, to chill  and do some people watching from a beach side café … while enjoying a Sagres of course! What a spot it was for Matilda and I to spend our final moments reminiscing together before the remaining short spin to our finish line at the Largo coworking space, which is managed by Mr. Pepe, my friend and ghostrider, who was also the manager of that coworking space in Óbidos. Round and around we go!

Matilda and I.
As strangers we departed,
as friends, we arrived.

‘My Matilda’ by Jyri Manninen

Upon arriving at Largo, all seemed quiet, so we just plonked ourselves down at the adjacent, and very aptly named, Café Ponto Final, to already commence the physical recovery process, by enjoying yet some more elixir of the Gods, as we waited for Pepe to manifest himself. After four tours around Portugal, which, themselves, were the sequels to our original epic ride from Finland back in 2017, this was to be my final ride with Matilda, before her retirement. However, the story has only just begun, and I look forward to sharing this mission of unfolding awareness, which my brother-in-arms, Sir Aragorn, and I have anointed as the Road to Righteousville.

Be blessed,
Jyri

Adelina

Jyri Manninen | Kajura

Today Matilda and I would be heading to my home-away-from-home, the city of Caldas da Rainha, where I have visited, and even lived in, during the past 12 or so years. To get there, we would briefly revisit both Nazaré and Sao Martinho do Porto, after an early start from Marinha Grande. It was going to be a warm and sunny day, and with only some 56km to cover, it would also be a great opportunity for us to enjoy an easy, as well as nostalgic roll, back into our home shire.

The opening stage to Nazaré was pretty uneventful, as the day started to heat up. We took a moment to take in some spectacular views from the top of the headland, which overlooks the beach and boulevarde below, before continuing our journey southward. On the final stretch into São Martinho do Porto, it was rather nice to move at a faster than usual speed as we paced behind a local mountain biker for the final 3km to the centre. Obrigado meu amigo!


My mum had contacted an old friend of hers ahead of time to arrange a lunch date at our old neighbourhood café, the Pastelaria Malhoa in Caldas da Rainha. It was so wonderful to be able to catch up with Adelina, as well as the owner, Pedro, while also having my mum join in via video chat. It felt like we’d never been away! Prior to heading to our accommodation for the night, we took some time to soak in the vibes of a regular weekday afternoon, with a visit to Parque Dom Carlos I, the city’s beautifully tranquil central park. We made our way there via the long main pedestrian street, which opens out at the bustling Praça da Fruta.

Her presence brings calm,
before from here, now from there.
Rest in Peace, Dear One.

‘Adelina’ by Jyri Manninen


I really wished that we’d had more time to stay in Caldas, simply just ‘to be’ in a place that continues to feel like truly being home. Alas, how prophetic that sentiment would become, as only a little over half a year later, we would receive the very sad news that my mum’s friend, whom we had met for lunch on this day, had passed away; and in her honour, I will complete this story about our penultimate day on this bicycle tour, with a simple prayer, ‘Adelina, we miss you. Rest in Peace.’

Be blessed,
Jyri

New Eyes

Jyri Manninen | Kajura

Over the 11th and 12th days of our Portugal’s Northern Coastline and Peneda-Geres cycling tour, Matilda and I would ride a total of 148km to reach Marinha Grande, via Figueira da Foz, where we’d overnight at Hostel 402, as we’d already done on the outward leg. As we headed out from Torreira, there really wasn’t much to think about. It was basically just going to be a day of head down and bum up, to pretty much retrace the same route as we’d taken on the outbound leg. However, we did start the day with a relaxing roll down the Aveiro Lagoon on our way to São Jacinto to catch the morning ferry. As I had plenty of time, before departure, I even tucked in to a second breakfast at a waterfront café, while chatting with a retired, holidaying couple from Holland, who happened to be sitting at an adjacent table.

After thoroughly enjoying a simple, yet utterly superb Portuguese breakfast of champions, which consisted of a strong coffee, Sagres and a pastel de nata, it was time for the short ferry over to Praia do Cabedelo, which was way easier than having to, once again, navigate the stressful crossing of the Mondego River via the main traffic bridge. From there, we followed the Eurovelo 1 bike route before deviating inland at Lagoa da Ervedeira. From there Matilda and I proceeded on to our destination of Marinha Grande via some wonderful, quiet country roads, which were mostly free of any traffic.

Expectations lead,
to sometimes good, sometimes bad.
With new eyes I see.

‘New Eyes’ by Jyri Manninen

We stayed at the Wood, Steel and Glass hostel; and while I won’t go into any greater details, I’ll just say that I was quite unpleasantly surprised at the quality of this place, including the service provided. Despite the good expectations I’d had, at least based on the pictures I’d seen of the place when booking, I was rather underwhelmed, to say the least. I’ll also add that spending the night sharing a dormitory with half a dozen rough and rowdy Spanish laborers, who were working in the area, added an extra twist that I could have very well done without after a long day in the saddle. I suppose when traveling on a budget, you have to be prepared for anything; and I guess that’s what, ultimately, develops one’s ability to accept uncomfortable situations, and via that, the resilience to meeting the wide range of challenges that life can throw at you. So, in the end, it was all good!

Be blessed,
Jyri