Jyri Manninen | Kajura – Page 8

Castelo

January 21, 2024October 23, 2025 Jyri Manninen | Kajura

With the Peneda-Geres National Park crossing behind me, I now had my sights set on the historic city of Guimarães, which was just a little less than 50km away. However, I’d have another rather tough climb to start the day, as I exited Geres to reach the high plateau starting at the 11km mark, but just like the day before, the spectacular views would make it all more than worthwhile.

After my usual morning coffee and cerveja break, which today was in Póvoa de Lanhoso, I decided to push the second half of the day’s ride hard, so that I could reach Guimarães around lunchtime, leaving me the entire afternoon to explore the city on foot. Soon enough, I’d arrived at my accommodation for the night, the very welcoming Guimarães Living Hostel. Then, after a quick clean up and snack, I was off!

Over these stone walls,
a heart of gold, therein lies.
Dare you climb to see?
‘Castelo’ by Jyri Manninen

Apart from just being happy to admire the amazing historic architecture, for me, the highlight of my walking tour was visiting the Castelo de Guimarães. The Countess Mumadona Dias ordered the construction of the castle in the mid 10th century, and it’s closely associated with the Counts of Portucale, and it’s related to some symbolic moments in Portugal’s path to Independence, such as the Siege of Guimarães in 1127, as well as the the Battle of São Mamede, which was fought nearby on the 24th June, the following year.

Fortunately, I also had enough time to visit the hilltop Santuário de Penha, which I reached by cable car. That was an amazing excursion on its own, and so I’ll be posting a separate addendum, which will include images and more details about this magical and tranquil place, especially due to its unique microclimate and flora. It truly was the perfect sanctuary to escape the hustle and bustle of all the tourism and everyday life below in the city.

Be blessed,
Jyri

Origin

January 7, 2024January 21, 2024 Jyri Manninen | Kajura

On this 7th day of my Portugal’s Northern Coastline and Peneda-Geres cycling tour, I would finally make my crossing of the Peneda-Geres National Park; and while it would only be a ride of just 60km, it would include over 1200m of very solid climbing, as well as a brief visit to Spain, as the national park spans over the border between the two countries.

Pretty much immediately after departing Lima Escape Camping at Entre Ambos-os-Rios, the first of the day’s two major climbs would begin. I was to continue to track the Lima River in the valley below me all the way up to its origin at Encoro de Lindoso, just before crossing into Spain at A Madalena; and the views! Well, let me just say that the juice was well worth the squeeze!

After crossing the border, it wasn’t long before I arrived at Lobios, where I enjoyed a late morning coffee and cerveja break before turning south to head back towards Portugal. However, the first half of the afternoon’s ride was not going to be easy with that second, and even more severe, major climb now right in my face. I was definitely going to have to work hard to earn my next offering of liquid gold!

To the source, I climbed.
Blood, sweat, tears of pain and joy.
Moments of magic.
‘Origin’ by Jyri Manninen

I felt a great sense of relief when I reached the old border post at Portela do Homem, located at the top of that exhausting climb, especially knowing that it would all be downhill from here; and I definitely made sure to collect my prize at the Bar da Fronteira. What a moment it was to soak in the atmosphere, as I spent a half hour or so sipping on a grande Super Bock while quietly observing the hordes of tourists visiting the national park’s central hub, the starting point for many of its nature trails; but soon it would be time to commence my descent!

On the way down, I decided to make one final stop for the day, as I wanted a moment of tranquility for myself to just be alone with my thoughts in solitude and silence. I had now reached the ‘top of my tour’ and felt a kind of melancholy, as I wouldn’t have the opportunity on this trip to properly immerse myself in the beauty of this magical place, as I was still on a fairly tight schedule. It really emphasized to me just how precious time is, and how one should not waste it on meaningless pursuits. I vowed, then and there, that I would return on foot to well and truly explore the wonders of Peneda-Geres.

That final descent ended up being so steep and fast that I nearly overwhelmed Matilda’s disc brakes! However, we made it safely to our night’s accommodation at the Selina Geres, a lovely hotel situated right at the edge of the Geres Albufeira, which is connected to the Cávado River. I stayed in a dormitory room, which I shared with, if you can believe it, another Finn, who was a medical student with the same family name as me, as well as a Dutch scientist working remotely on food sources for planned moon mission astronauts. Yeah, you just couldn’t make this shit up!

What a day it had been, and it was finished off in perfect style with a delicious, Portuguese buffet dinner organised by the hotel, which they offer once a week for guests. So, it seems that I found myself here at exactly the right time.

Be blessed,
Jyri

Escape

December 23, 2023December 30, 2023 Jyri Manninen | Kajura

On this day I would change course due east to follow the Lima River inland to the edge of the Peneda-Geres National Park, a comfortable 70km ride with a nice 400 odd metres of climbing. As I quickly revisited Viana do Castelo in the very early morning hours, I took in the famous ship, the Gil Eannes. Between 1955 and 1973, the Gil Eannes was the flagship of the Portuguese White Fleet that operated in codfish fishing in the seas of the Grand Banks of Newfoundland and Greenland. It also served as a maritime authority, mail ship, tug, icebreaker, general support ship for Portuguese fishing vessels, as well as a hospital ship.

After leaving Viana, in a light, yet warm morning drizzle, it was pretty much a head down, bum up spin to Ponte de Lima, where the famous Roman and medieval stone bridge is the centerpiece. Visiting this bridge would also be a reconnection with my first ever camino walking trek, the Camino Portuguese, which I undertook back in the Easter period of 2017. At the same time, it was both a very weird, but also satisfying moment to be back at this location, and to think of all that had happened during the interim years.

Proceeding onwards from Ponte de Lima, I was clearly now into wine growing country. The morning fog had lifted, and with the sun now brightly shining in the sky, the warmth and humidity started to ramp up as I passed numerous vineyards en route to the next major regional town of Ponte da Barca, where I decided to have an extended lunch break by the river with views of its own Roman age bridge. Once rested and refreshed with some pastries and a few bottles of Sagres, I started the final segment of my ride to the day’s destination at Lima Escape Camping and Glamping, which is located on the banks of the Lima River, and right at the border of the Peneda-Geres National Park.

On the way up high,
to where the Lime comes to life.
I made my escape.
‘Escape’ by Jyri Manninen

After getting my camp set up, I headed off to do some late afternoon exploring on foot, discovering the entrancingly peaceful and serene Lagoa de Chão D’Além. At this hidden spot, I felt a wave of profound relaxation and calm wash over me as I spent a moment sitting by the water’s edge, just silently listening to the gurgle and hiss of the water as it flowed between the rocks.

Upon returning to camp, I hopped into my hammock accompanied by a grande, ice-cold bottle of Sagres to see in the sunset. As the light glistened and sparkled over the Lima river below, and then gradually faded away into night, I fell into a deep trance-like state, one in which I felt that I’d finally cut ties with the modern world. I’d finally made my escape.

Be blessed,
Jyri